The Week Magazine's Food & Drink Section May 25,2018's Issue

Craft Urban Geneva, Ill.

“Urban” might be the last word any Chicagoan would associate with the town of Geneva, but the owner of Craft Urban is quite serious about his vision, said Phil Vettel in the Chicago Tribune. Bernie Laskowski was a notable Chicago chef before his push into the suburbs, and in Geneva, a bedroom community 45 miles from the Loop, he was determined to create a city vibe by combining a handsome bare brick dining room with a compact, upscale menu. How compact? You’ll find no appetizers here. Instead chef Andrew Sikkelerus offers a choice between bar snacks like tempura-fried cheese curds or various “breads and spreads.” Fish entrées are well sourced, and headlined by Rushing Waters rainbow trout in a lemon-caper sauce. The porchetta, served on a bed of cannellini, isa star among the meaty options, and desserts include such “classic indulgences” as a tall apple pie and excellent chocolate mousse. One truly urban touch: After 10 on Friday and Saturday nights, the kitchen spoons out ramen, and canned beers are half price. 211 James St., (331) 248-8161

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